What I did this weekend: Built a poker table. |
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Posted Mon Aug 01, 2005 10:08 am GMT by K-rug
I’ll start with the finished product and explain what I did.
Here it is. Two days worth of work, some swear words and lots of sweat.
Unfortunately, I failed to check my digital camera before I started working on this project. So I missed taking pictures of the first days work because my battery was dead. After cutting out everything the first thing I started on was staining the race track.
This is a picture of the wood that would be the rail with the foam attached. I used 3/4" HD foam. I wanted 1" but the supplier did not have any in. In the end 3/4" is more than enough.
This is the “negative track” and behind it is the actual center playing piece. I used two pieces of wood. The base piece I stained measuring in 3” from the edge and 11” from the edge. This way when I attached the 4” rail and the center piece I would have a 6” stained race track that would show. I allowed 1” on both sides as overage to make sure I covered everything with the satin and poly. It took four coats of poly but it came out great. This extra peice of wood if I cut everything right from my second board should have measured 6" which is the width of the race track that will show from my base board.
Measuring for cutting the vinyl.
Attaching the vinyl
Almost every plan I saw called for using three pieces of wood. Not sure why. What I did was set my center piece on my base board and drilled eight holes through both pieces. Then I used a 3/8” bit and drilled a counter sink about ¼ of an inch down. The reason for this was that I wanted to use a bolt/washer/nut combo to attaché the pieces. What this allows me to do is take off the center piece whenever I want/need to.
Close up of counter sunk hole.
I wanted to reinforce the bolt so that it didn’t pop up and into the table creating a lump. So I took some all-purpose filler and filled the holes up.
What I didn’t count on was it setting in 5 minutes and become hard as a rock. So I took my trusty wood chisel and chipped away at it.
Then I sanded the holes
Here I am covering the table with Emperor Red Velveteen. You can see the bolt stick through the bottom that will attach to the base.
Here is the top of the center piece covered.
Here is the center piece attached to the base
Here is a picture of the underside of the base and the nut used to tighten everything down.
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Posted Mon Aug 01, 2005 10:37 am GMT by K-rug
Materials I used:
1/2" 4x8 Oak Plywood for my base (originally wanted 3/4" Home Depot did not have it)
3/4" 4x8 Sandeply for the rail and center piece (originally wanted 1/2" Home Depot did not have it)
108" x 54" Black Vinyl
30" x 48" Red Emperor Velveteen
108" x 54" High Density white foam
3M #90 spray adhesive
10 Stainless Steel cup holders
A 2 3/4" hold saw for my drill to drill the cup holder holes.
I used 1 1/2" bolts, I had 1/2", 3/4" and 1 1/4" screws, a ton of staples, all-purpose putty/filler. I had an old 6' table that I bought at Target for $20 that had an AWESOME leg system that were one solid piece not two individual leg units. Because they were one piece they had a support lattace running from one end to the other between the legs. 3/4" pipe coupling to hold the legs to the base.
Posted Mon Aug 01, 2005 11:09 am GMT by ShoelessJoe
Honestly, no BS, how much would you want for it/another one to build?
I'd buy one for you if I could pick it up (there's no way I'm shipping one of those things).
GREAT JOB.
And if you don't wanna sell one to me you could def. make some cash off making a few more of those and selling them.
Posted Mon Aug 01, 2005 11:45 am GMT by K-rug
Heh, never thought about selling it. We haven't even played on it yet. We'll do that this Wednesday. There are a few minor defects and things that I learned from buildig this one that didn't come out quite perfect and I wouldn't feel right selling it with.
The materials and supplies easily cost me $400 plus two days time. I'm sure I could cut that down to a day now that I know what I'm doing. I could probably cut the cost down to about $250 for materials since now I have a lot of what I need.
Wood = $100
Foam and Fabric = $100 ($60 foam, $20 Velveteen, $20 Vinyl)
Misc screws, nuts, clamps, glue, adhesive, staples, hole saw, bolts, cheap table from Target, cup holders =$150
I wanted a 3/4" base and a 1/2" center piece. However, Home Depot didn't have the wood I wanted in those sizes. In fact they had the opposite. So the base ended up being 1/2" and the rail and center piece ended up being 3/4".
BUT!!! I forgot when I was securing my legs that the base was now 1/2" but my screwes were 3/4" for the old base. Whoops. I have tiny ittiy bitty barely dectable holes in the race track less than a 1/32" where the screw poked through a bit. I'm going to fix that tonight.
Also, try as I did, I could not get the railing to come out smooth and wrinkle free. So I had to cut each corner to get it straight and then applied a "patch strip" from the left over material to cover up the cut mark. You can probably see the strips on each corner in the finished pic.
Also I didn't secure the cup holders down because if they get dirty I can pop them out and throw them in the dishwasher.
Posted Mon Aug 01, 2005 11:48 am GMT by K-rug
So I guess to answer you question since I didn't, I wouldn't feel right selling this one. I'd be happy to make one for anyone in my area (Washington D.C. Metro area) if you came to pick it up. Don't know about you though Joe, Florida is a looong way to come to pick it up. Maybe when I'm visiting my buddy in Jacksonville over New Years I'll build him one and an extra one you can buy. Although, I don't know if he has the tools I'll need.
No clue as to what this would retail for.
Posted Tue Aug 02, 2005 10:47 pm GMT by BayouBonz
Excellent Job K-rug!
I'm planning to build a table, and am looking at the various designs. Could you explain how the rail is anchored to the table? Some of the rail designs I've seen are loose, but "nest" on top on the base/racetrack.
Once again, nice job -
Posted Wed Aug 03, 2005 10:11 am GMT by K-rug
It was quite simple. I screwed the two pieces together.
The one thing I found in common with a lot of plans is the use of three pieces of 4’x8’ wood. Presumably to have the racetrack and center piece close to flush as possible. I’m not really sure why else. So what you have is the need for a “lip” or something that attaches to your rail and is cut from your base but is not secured to anything.
At any rate, I purchased two pieces of plywood. Piece A was for the base and exposed race track and piece B was for the rails and center piece. You REALLY REALLY should have piece A be 3/4” and piece B should be 1/2”. However, my Home Depot didn’t so I had to reverse it. It didn’t come out bad. But I would have preferred it the other way around.
After I cut out the rail and center piece for piece B and did all the prep work on piece A with the staining and rounding the edges. I attached the foam and vinyl to the rail. However I only secured/stapled the inside of the rail. Why? Because only after I attached the rail to the base, piece A, could I wrap the vinyl around the edge and secure it under. If I had done the inner AND the outer than I would be exposing my base, piece A, edge all around the table. Make sense? So all I did was screw it in place and staple the vinyl under.
Tip #1
When it comes to stapling the vinyl or the velveteen I cannot stress enough how much of a two man job this is. I did it the first time by myself and had to remove the vinyl, buy another sheet (thankfully it was on sale) and redo it with the help of a buddy.
Tip #2
To cut holes for the cup holders use a 2 3/4” hole cut bit for your screwdriver. Of course if you bought the jumbo cup holders and not the normal size you’ll need a bigger hole cutter.
Tip #3
Apply four coats of poly to your stain. Three coats was fine and I was content with it but the fourth coat really makes it look good.
Tip #4
3/4” HD foam is fine. You really don’t need any more in thickness.
Tip #5
DO NOT CUT ALL THE WAY TO THE RAIL when attaching your vinyl. In my 5th picture you’ll see what I did. I left about 3” around the inside. If you cut down to the rail it will make attaching the vinyl very easy. However, you will expose a lot of your wood.
Tip #6
Always mark which end is which when you align your rail and center piece. When I went to assemble the center piece I forgot which end was which. Granted there are only two ways the center piece can be turned. It was the second one for me that matched the bolts to the holes.
Tip #7
Make sure to check your coats of poly in the light. Meaning bend down and look at the reflection of the light on your table top after applying a coat of poly. It will show you where you missed a spot or where you might have a drop or glob of too much.
Tip #8
Attaching the vinyl is a looong and frustrating job to get it right. But take your time and relax.
Tip #9
Spay your foam with the spray adhesive to keep it in play on the rail and center piece. Take a box cutter and slowly cut off any excess from the edges so the foam and wood edges are flush together.
Posted Wed Aug 03, 2005 11:28 am GMT by BayouBonz
Thanks for breaking that down for me K-rug. I like the simplicity of your design. I agree with you that the 3rd piece on the rail of most other designs must be simply to provide a "lip" to drop over the base.
Again, thanks for your explanation and thanks for posting pics of your great work!
Posted Wed Aug 03, 2005 2:06 pm GMT by K-rug
The other thing with my design is that I can interchange the tops or take it off to clean it or whatever I want at will. I thought that was a nice tough. Now I have the bug. I want to build another.
Posted Wed Aug 03, 2005 2:32 pm GMT by Loonbat
A very sweet table - I hope it serves your needs.
Posted Wed Aug 03, 2005 10:14 pm GMT by ShoelessJoe
Sorry I never got back to ya K-Rug. I was kinda thrown off by the server being down or whatever.
Anyways, I really think you should try to sell some of these babies (not necessarily to people on here but just to poker players in general).
I just can't tell one thing from your graphics. That is... is the rail raised above the felt? IE like the ESPN featured table has that little raised space where the pocket cams go... doesnt ur table have the raised padding like that?
Posted Wed Aug 03, 2005 10:44 pm GMT by K-rug
Yes it is raised. The race track is part of the base board and the rail and center piece mount on top of it. I love this design and honestly, now that we played on it tonight with 10 people almost had three spills I can't say I would ever want the race track to be flush or near flush with the rail or center piece. Spill clean up easier when they are confined and can't soak into anything. But the fact the rail and center piece are raised make playing really really easy and nice. Everyone loved it. I have got to build another one now.
Posted Thu Aug 04, 2005 9:52 am GMT by 1988 TR
That is very nice - Job well done!
Posted Thu Aug 04, 2005 4:25 pm GMT by ShoelessJoe
| K-rug wrote: | | I have got to build another one now. |
:D
Posted Thu Aug 04, 2005 7:47 pm GMT by K-rug
The finace is going to be out of town this weekend. I might just have to do table #2. Problem is I have a poker tourney from 11am-6pm. Damn. Damn. Damn.
Posted Thu Aug 04, 2005 9:20 pm GMT by ShoelessJoe
Sleep is overrated anyways...
Posted Tue Aug 16, 2005 11:18 am GMT by lwestatbus
Very, very nice.
Posted Tue Aug 16, 2005 3:49 pm GMT by K-rug
My brothers just gave me a home depot card for an engagement gift. Heh... I know what I using it for. The fiance got an iPod Shuffle so it's alllllll good.
Posted Wed Aug 17, 2005 10:42 pm GMT by Miss_J
its beautiful 
Posted Tue Aug 23, 2005 1:24 pm GMT by howzit
purdy table.
Posted Tue Aug 23, 2005 2:51 pm GMT by K-rug
I am starting to gather supplies for a second one... Stay tuned.
Posted Wed Aug 24, 2005 10:40 am GMT by howzit
as a personal taste, the race track could be narrower.
Posted Tue Nov 29, 2005 3:29 pm GMT by K-rug
Table #2 is finally being built and 2/3ds of the way complete. I'll have pics and upload the info this weekend. Stay tuned.
Posted Tue Nov 29, 2005 9:19 pm GMT by dgold41
Really nice, good work-
What was the total supply cost when all said and done?
Posted Sat Dec 03, 2005 3:28 pm GMT by ddawg923
that is one of the nicest tables ive ever seen 
Posted Mon Dec 12, 2005 5:34 am GMT by zoom1200
Nice.......
Posted Wed Apr 26, 2006 2:23 pm GMT by K-rug
Sorry I've been away for a while. Table #2 was completed several months ago. I'll have to upload the pics as soon as I find them.
Posted Wed Apr 26, 2006 5:39 pm GMT by Soup_dog
I am a bit of a handyman myself, but all I can say is DAMN. Very very very nice work. I'm impressed.
Posted Fri Apr 28, 2006 3:24 pm GMT by AlbinoLlama
For those of us not very talented with woodwork/ don't have the time to make one like that, where should we go?
Posted Fri Apr 28, 2006 6:21 pm GMT by K-rug
Good question. I have no idea. You don't have to be good with woodwork. You just have to be able to measure, be patient and cut on the line.
The thing I found while looking at ones you could get at poker supply stores and online is the majority of them are created from cheap materials. The good ones cost a small fortune.
Honestly the key is to measure twice and cut once while taking your time. Sounds cliche but it's true. I don't do this for living or work with my hands for my living. So anyone can do it.
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